Custom-Build Kalashnikov
by Eric W. Pfleger (Suarez International Instructor)
The Kalashnikov rifle has become one of the most popular fighting instruments to be fielded in the world. Its rich history, unrivaled availability, legendary reliability, combined with its affordability, have made it one of the most sought after rifles by the civilian operator in the states. Many variants and configurations of the Kalashnikov are available from inexpensive mass production examples (I believe it was Stalin who stated something to the effect ‘quantity possess a quality all its own’), that range from poor to quite serviceable. On the other end you will find custom builds that will rival the performance of any other fighting rifle one would desire, they are priced upward accordingly. Rifles available from China, Egypt, Bulgaria, Romania, Yugoslavia, Hungary, and of course Russian manufacture, and many others have been or are currently available to the consumer. With many aftermarket parts and accessories appearing on the scene, one can set up their rifle to accomplish any number of missions.
An option that has been popular during the last decade, is the ‘build’. With many parts kits from ‘demilled’ military surplus in circulation, consumers often have opted for the custom build to fit their needs versus the modification of an existing rifle. Just what goes into the build will vary by the content of the kit, however the customer has the advantage of choosing the parts configuration they desire. Items such as furniture, optics mounts, fire control components, sight/ gas block combinations, etc. are chosen based on the attributes and capabilities the user requires of the rifle. The build generally allows for a better fit of parts and tuning of the overall package becomes more precise, resulting in a tight fitting, cleaner looking product that often delivers enhanced performance.
To illustrate the process that goes into a custom build, I will walk you through the steps of a recent project gun I built. I will document the particulars of this project and discuss some possibilities for similar construction.
The kit was one of the Romanian ‘G’ kit varieties. The year of manufacture was 1978. The components appeared to be in excellent condition with matching serial numbers throughout. These rifles often were issued as training rifles (indicative of stock markings) and used very little. The weapon was demilled by torch cutting the original receiver, leaving a portion attached to the front and rear trunion and the trigger guard assembly attached to the remnants of bottom metal from the original receiver, so that importation could occur. This package included original barrel (currently there is a restriction on the import of barrels) complete with sight tower, gas block, etc. fitted to the front trunion. Rear trunion, fire control components, selector, bolt and carrier and accessories were contained in a bag. The package included the original issue stock, forearm, pistol grip and a cosmoline soaked magazine. The appropriate amount of 922R compliance parts would be worked into the project and the rifle would be built on a virgin U.S. receiver.
For this build it was decided to discard the original furniture and equip the rifle with an ACE folding stock mounted flush with receiver. A US Palm AK battle grip was selected to replace the Romy pistol grip for its enhanced feel in the hand and internal storage compartment . A copy (US manufactured) of the Bulgarian synthetic forearm was selected for its clean fit and appearance when combined with an UltiMak gas tube, plus its ability to manage heat with the metal heat shield. It was decided that the front sight tower would be deleted and the gas block would be replaced with one of the fine units from Bolton equipped with front sight. The rear sight would be replaced with a windage adjustable model as issued on the RPK. As mentioned above, an UltiMak with a picatiny rail would provide the foundation for a red dot optic. Fire Control Group parts (hammer, trigger, disconector) would be a one of the popular Tapco G2 packs. The barrel would be left in its as issued length with a Fortress flash hider replacing the original slant brake. Often it has been a popular option to cut the barrel back and permanently affix the flash hider bringing the overall barrel length back to the legally required 16”, resulting in a very light and fast handling rifle with the Bolton block. In this project it was opted to maintain the factory threads to support the addition of a sound suppressor without registering the platform as a short barrel rifle, so for sake of appearance the original sight tower pin channels in the barrels top would be welded in and contoured. The finished rifle would have all steel parts parkerized and the entire weapon with exception of sights would be finished in a camouflage pattern, using Brownells Alumahyde 2 as a base.

We begin the process by placing all of the parts in a bin, making sure that everything needed is present and in serviceable condition. Everything that can be disassembled by hand, such as rear sight, muzzle brake, and such are removed. The demilling of the ‘kit’ starts with pressing the barrel pin from the front trunion. Once free of pin, the barrel is placed muzzle down in a purpose built assemble plate in an upright hydraulic press. Penetrating lubricant applied to assist the departure of 30 plus years of parts being mated is advised. Several copper pennies are placed over the face of the chamber for cushion. A section of old barrel is placed between the pennies and the ram of the press. Once aligned the barrel is slowly pressed forward out of the trunion.


The trunions and trigger guard/ selector stop plate with attached remnants of original receiver are then clamped into the mill and all rivets heads are ground off and rivet shafts punched free. All rivet holes are cleaned up with the appropriate gauge drill bit and parts are measured for proper tolerances. Thorough cleaning and degreasing of everything out of the kit is performed.


The receiver selected for this project was considered ’ virgin’ in that after stamping, folding, heat treating , and installation of the center support, it was left sans rivet holes for the trunions. The receiver is loaded with the appropriate trunion drilling blanks to support the interior of the receiver and then place in the drilling jig. Proper trunion holes are drilled for the Romanian parts with appropriate sized bit to match the holes in the trunions. This is very much a measure twice-drill once operation. Receiver is then removed from jig and all holes are then inspected for round. Trunions are slid into place and lined up with the ends of the receiver, checking for the proper placements of holes and true fit. This is an area of the build that must be to utmost spec.


At this point the trunions are set aside and the receiver is placed into a hydraulic hand press. The selector stop plate and trigger guard with magazine latch assembly are aligned with the holes on the bottom of the receiver. Rivets are placed into holes and pressed to 2500lbs, making sure that they are crushed uniformly.


Upon installation of the trigger guard and satisfactory fit of trunions to receiver, each rivet is placed in its hole joining trunion and receiver , and hand fit if needed. Rivets are then initially pressed with a pneumatic rivet gun. All rivets are inspected to insure they are crimped flush to host surfaces and another measurement series to insure spec is conducted. Receiver is then placed back into the hand press and trunion rivets are then pressed to a full 5000lbs and the crimped side is squished in a cup to mimic the dome shape of the head end of the rivet. All rivets are again inspected for proper crush and receiver is measured for spec.


The barrel assembly is inspected for proper spec. The uniformity of front sight tower, gas block, hand guard retainer plate, rear sight block should be checked at this point, in particular if these parts are to be retained in the final build. In this project both front sight tower and gas block were to be replaced, but alignment of all were inspected and found to be in line with nothing canted. At this point I weld the rear face of the barrel pin cut, placing just enough material to allow me to ‘redrill’ the pin channel after head spacing. This step is often bypassed when building guns from demilled matching kits as the parts were previously joined. Taking this step however allows the barrel to receive a fresh head spacing against the gauge and ensures solid alignment and engagement with the barrel pin. On ‘new ‘ manufacture barrels( as are being supplied by domestic sources as a result of importation bans) a slightly different process may be applied as pin holes for barrel, sight towers, and gas block may not be in evidence and one may be drilling gas ports and milling extractor claw cuts later in the build process.
The receiver is now placed in purpose built assembly with a bolt carrier ‘blank’ in place for support. The chamber end of the barrel is placed into the trunion. Once properly aligned, the barrel is pressed approximately 90% of the way into the trunion. The barrel and receiver are then double checked for uniformity and that nothing is canted. The rear sight tower extension must be properly aligned between the’ ears’of the trunion. All is good, so the bolt is placed into the carrier and the appropriate head space gauge is placed on the bolt face and chambered. The barrel and receiver assembly are then given the final press home, setting head space and orienting parts where they will mate henceforth. Headspace gauges are then utilized to ensure appropriate spec and all critical measurements are checked. The barrel pin is measured with a micrometer and the appropriate gauge drill bit is run through the hole in the trunion and barrel channel. The barrel pin is then pressed into place.
The Bolt and carrier are checked for smooth function in the rails of the receiver. The ejector tab must engage the cut in the bolt properly, and the carrier must not ‘hop’ the retention cuts in the rear of the receiver with rod and recoil spring installed. The carrier group must travel smoothly and the bolt cam into battery correctly. At this point the tolerances of the top cover are checked for fit with the rear sight tower and the groove in the rear trunion. I disdain a sloppy dust cover on an AK. If it doesn’t sit snugly, the pin retaining the rear sight tower is removed, hole welded, adjustments made, and pin hole redrilled and installed. The gas tube fit needs to be checked as well if you are retaining the original tube. In this case an UltiMAK was in order so no worries.

Fire control parts were installed and selector lever placed into the receiver. The pistol grip and T nut were joined to the receiver and tightened down. Bolt and carrier were checked for smooth reciprocation with the FCG installed. Fifteen rounds were place into a magazine and the rifle was brought to the test fire trap. Eye and ear protection in place, the muzzle was inserted into the trap and I hollered the obligatory ‘Fire in the hole’! Fifteen rounds of 7.62x39 went off with a muffled thud, accompanied by the steam and water vapor from the traps exhaust port. Good!
The rifle was brought back to the bench and visually examined for any potential problems from the TF. Headspace was rechecked. All checked out and no adjustments to the bolts locking lugs were needed. The bolt, carrier, FCG, pistol grip, and gas tube were removed.

The barreled receiver was placed on the bench and the four pins retaining the front sight tower and gas block were punched out. The weapon was then placed back in the pneumatic press. Purpose built press blocks were secured to the front sight tower and gas block. The parts were then pressed from the barrel, leaving it clean from the handgaurd retainer forward. The handgaurd was temporarily installed to check fit then removed. The visible channels in the barrel left by the retaining pins were welded up and carefully contoured to the surrounding barrel.
The Bolton block, with front sight post installed and centered, was slipped onto the barrel and aligned with the existing gas hole. With rear sight placed in the rear tower, the block was adjusted by hand for cant. After ‘eyeballing’ alignment, a laser bore sighting device was placed in the muzzle and confirming the ‘in line’ state of things, the bolts on the gas block tightened. A third check with the square proving satisfactory it was time for the installation of the UltiMAK. The barrel stirrups were placed around the barrel and held in place with the hand guard. The UltiMAK tube was positioned for proper fit between the Bolton Block and the rear sight tower. With some slight adjustment and bumping things in place, all appeared square. Bolts on the Ultimak were snugged. Pistol grip, selector, and trigger pack were reinstalled and bolt and carrier placed in the receiver. A function check to make sure the gas piston was in line with UltiMAK and gas block were checked. Recoil spring and Top cover in place, a thirty round magazine was test fired into the trap. All shots flinging empty cases a healthy distance across the shop. Bolt, carrier, FCG, rear sight, and pistol grip were removed. An inspection of the gas block and UltiMAK displaced everything was in order and nothing shifted. The UltiMAK stirrup positions were marked and the tube removed. The handgaurd was removed as well as the front sight, spring, and pin from the Bolton block. A final torque was applied to the Bolton block.

The next step was to remove the tang (rat tail) from the rear trunion as the Ace stock being installed on this build would incorporate the flush fitting receiver block from Ace. A cut off wheel made short work of the rat tail. The cut was cleaned up with a file and an abrasive wheel. The Receiver block from ACE was checked for a seamless fit. Excellent.

Now that the rifle was essentially ‘built’ and functioning properly, the time to apply the first finish was near. The Rifle parts were disassembled . The muzzle was plugged with an eraser and tape and the chamber was plugged with an empty cartridge case. All steel parts from barreled receiver to top cover, to the flat spring for the rear sight, were suspended on wire and placed in a tub. The parts were transported to the blast cabinet and all surface were tickled with aluminum oxide to ‘stand up’ the surface. After blasting the parts were handed only by their wire hangers, dusted with compressed air, and degreased. After checking temp in the Parkerizing tank, parts were submerged for a 20 minute boil, extracted, dipped in the degreasing tank, and aired off. A nice uniform grey was achieved with no indication of rub off. Excellent! The parts were left clean and dry with no oil, as the rifle was eventually to get a second skin. The interior of the barrel was thoroughly cleaned after the dunking.




After allowed an overnight dry time, the rifle was completely reassembled and all furniture installed. Next up was the firing range. The iron sights were adjusted (by filing the front on the Bolton Block) to zero at 100yards. The rifle proved itself by delivering a five round two and half inch group from the bench rest at 100 when fed Wolf Military Classic FMJ. Point of impact/ point of aim were consistent with 1970s Yugo FMJ and some Winchester USA Ball. Two magazines containing a total of sixty rounds of Yugo were ‘bump fired’ without stoppage. Having roughly confirmed the rifles zero and proofing it as reliable it was back to the shop for a camouflage skin.


The rifle was ripped down to its major components, thoroughly degreased, and taped in a few places. The metal work was warmed with a heat gun as a base coat of Alumahyde 2 was applied to the weapon. After a second coat applied after approximately 20 minutes, the painted parts were given a week of ‘hang time’ allowing the finish to cure. The final pattern was applied using stencils cut from plastic sheeting with an assortment of matte colors. Several days dry time were allowed and a final coat of non-yellowing matte clear finish was applied to protect the surface. The final touch was wrapping the top bar of the Ace stock with two tones of parachute cord for some insulation from heat and cold on the cheek. A proper cleaning of the rifle and lubrication of the mechanism and it is ready to go!

This rifle build is representative of the quality weapon one can expect from a good parts kit, a quality build, and selection of parts that accomplish the desired use of the rifle. The accuracy of the rifle is very good for any infantry carbine and function has been without hitch. For those seeking a Kalashnikov better than the average shelf variety, look at having a quality build, performed using a clean parts kit. Now the only thing left to do is figure out what optic to compliment the rifle with!
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